How Lake Neusiedl shapes our wines

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Sonnenaufgang über dem Neusiedler See mit Schilf am Horizont

For our vineyards, Lake Neusiedl is more than just a backdrop. The large, shallow expanse of water stores heat and releases it slowly, reflects light onto the hillsides, provides an almost constant breeze, and brings the autumn mist. Rust is located directly on the western shore, and our vineyards rise from the reed belt up into the Rust hills. This interplay gives our wines both: ripeness and freshness.

Where is Rust located?

Rust is located in Burgenland on the western shore of Lake Neusiedl, about an hour's drive from Vienna and only five kilometers from the Hungarian border. The vineyards rise above the town like an open amphitheater: open toward the lake, with the Rust hills and the foothills of the Leitha Mountains at its back. Between the town and the open water lies a wide reed belt.

What is special about Lake Neusiedl?

Lake Neusiedl is the westernmost steppe lake in Europe and the largest lake in Austria. It covers about 320 square kilometers; well over two-thirds of it are in Austria, and the rest is in Hungary. And it is surprisingly shallow: it is only about one and a half meters deep on average, and nowhere deeper than about two meters.

The lake has no natural outlet and is primarily fed by rain. Its water is slightly salty. About half of its area is covered by reeds, making it the largest continuous reed bed in Europe after the Danube Delta. The Lake Neusiedl cultural landscape has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2001, and the Lake Neusiedl-Seewinkel National Park has existed since 1993.

How does the lake influence the climate in the vineyard?

Burgenland has a Pannonian climate: warm, dry summers, cold winters, and about 2,000 hours of sunshine per year. The lake moderates this climate. Its water surface absorbs heat during the day and releases it slowly at night and in autumn. The nights remain milder, late spring frosts are rarer, and autumn lasts longer.

For late-ripening varieties like Furmint, this is decisive. The grapes have time to ripen slowly and evenly, while retaining their acidity. Then there is the light: the lake surface reflects the sun back onto the slopes. Anyone standing above the vineyards on a clear day can see how bright this landscape is.

What role does the wind play?

There is almost always a wind blowing on the lake, usually from the northwest. It quickly dries grapes and leaves after rain, dew, or mist. Fungal diseases like downy and powdery mildew, which often affect Furmint, have a harder time as a result.

This is particularly important for us. We farm organically and have avoided synthetic pesticides since 2008. The wind is a silent ally in this: it keeps the vineyards healthy without us having to intervene. In the "Stockkultur" (traditional head-trained vine) system, where each vine stands freely, the wind can pass between the vines particularly well.

What does the autumn mist have to do with Ruster Ausbruch?

In autumn, mist often lies over the lake and the vineyards in the morning. By the afternoon, it clears, and the sun and wind dry the grapes again. This cycle of humidity and warmth is ideal for noble rot, the fungus Botrytis cinerea, which makes the grape skins permeable. The water evaporates, concentrating sugar, acidity, and aromas.

These berries are used to create Ruster Ausbruch, one of Europe's most famous sweet wines. Traditionally, it was pressed from Furmint. In 1681, the people of Rust bought the right to become a Royal Free City with wine and money. Without the lake, this history would not have happened.

What kind of soil is found on the western shore?

Where vines grow today, there was a sea millions of years ago. The limestone-rich soils with shells and corals in the rock, the so-called Leitha limestone, date back to this time. It primarily shapes the northern sites around Rust, where Blaufränkisch and the Burgundy varieties thrive particularly well. In the south, quartz, gneiss, and mica schist dominate, the typical gravel of Rust. A large part of our Furmint vines grow here.

This diversity in a small area is one reason why the lake alone does not explain the character of our wines. It provides heat, light, and wind. The soil provides structure and minerality. Only together do they create what you taste in the glass as terroir.

Who else lives by the lake?

The reed belt, the wetlands, and the dry slopes form a mosaic of habitats. Herons and birds of prey circle above the plains, migratory birds rest here, and with a bit of luck, you can see kingfishers, hoopoes, or bee-eaters. Rust is known as the town of the storks, which return to the same roofs every spring.

And then there are the starlings. From late summer onwards, they roost in the reeds in huge swarms and move into the ripe vineyards during the day. When thousands of them circle over the vineyards, it is a magnificent spectacle and a real challenge for us as winemakers. That, too, is part of working with nature rather than against it.

How is the lake changing?

Lake Neusiedl has never been entirely constant. Its water level fluctuates from year to year, and it almost dried up several times in the 19th century, most recently between 1864 and 1870. In recent years, the water level has been very low again, in 2022 lower than at any time since records began.

For us, this is a reminder of how much our work depends on this landscape. A healthy environment keeps us alive. That is why we work in a way that ensures it can still do so tomorrow.

Frequently asked questions about Lake Neusiedl

How does Lake Neusiedl influence the wine?
It stores heat, reflects light, and brings wind. This ensures long, even ripening, healthy grapes, and wines that combine ripeness and freshness.

Why is wind in the vineyard good?
It quickly dries the grapes after rain, dew, and mist, thus protecting them from rot and fungal diseases.

How deep is Lake Neusiedl?
On average, only about one and a half meters, at its deepest point around two meters.

Which grape variety is particularly suited to the lake?
For us, primarily Furmint. It ripens late and retains a lot of natural acidity. The long ripening time by the lake gives it depth, while the acidity keeps it fresh.

Is Rust located directly on the lake?
Yes, on the western shore. A wide reed belt lies between the town and the open water.

Can we visit you?
Yes. From November onwards, our cellar door sales are open every Friday and Saturday, otherwise by appointment.